SYRIAN PUMPKIN PATTIES

SYRIAN PUMPKIN PATTIES
Kibbet Yatkeen

These flavorful patties, which contain no eggs, are denser and more healthful than typical Western pancakes. In Syria, bulgur supplies the body in these patties, but in America some cooks discovered that oats make a suitable substitute. Of course, traditionalists insist on bulgur. Syrians tend to prefer their pumpkin pancakes savory and somewhat spicy, while Sephardim from Turkey and Greece generally like them slightly sweet. These might be served at a Syrian Hanukkah meal alongside bazargan (Syrian bulgur relish), yerba (stuffed grape leaves), spinach salad, and rice with pine nuts.

1 cup fine bulgur
2 cups warm water
2 cups mashed cooked pumpkin (about 2 1/2 pounds raw) or 16 ounces
pure-pack canned pumpkin
1 cup whole-wheat or unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cold water
1 onion, chopped
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
About 1/2 teaspoon table salt or 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
Pinch of Aleppo or cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Put the bulgur in a medium bowl, add the warm water, and let soak for 30 minutes. Drain.

2. Transfer the bulgur to a food processor. Add all of the remaining ingredients except the oil and process until smooth. If the mixture is too thin, add a little more flour. Using floured hands, shape into oval patties about 2 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 1/2 inch thick, tapering the ends.

3. Heat 1/4 inch oil in a large skillet over medium heat. In batches, fry the patties, turning once, until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Serve warm or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Sephardic Pumpkin Patties (Fritadas de Calabaza): This batter is looser than the bulgur version and is dropped from a spoon. Omit the bulgur, the 1/2 cup cold water, the onion, garlic, coriander, pepper, allspice, cumin, and Aleppo pepper. Add 3 large eggs, 2 to 8 tablespoons granulated or packed brown sugar, 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg, and a pinch of ground
ginger.

Syrian Baked Pumpkin Casserole (Kibbet Yatkeen bi Seniyeh): Spread the pumpkin mixture in an oiled 9-inch square baking pan. Cut into diamonds or 1 1/2-inch squares, drizzle with 1/4 cup vegetable oil, and bake in a preheated 375°F oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

Makes about 12 patties.