African Adobo-Rubbed Tuna Steaks

African Adobo-Rubbed Tuna Steaks
Epicurious April 2003 Norman Van Aken New World Kitchen
Makes 4 servings

Adobo means spice rub or marinade, and this particular recipe was introduced by African slaves and brought to Bahía in Brazil in the seventeenth century. I think that it gives tuna a new and exciting dimension. There is spiciness in the dish, as would be expected from an adobo. To provide the American palate a little relief from the heat, the tuna is served on a bed of lightly pickled cucumbers.

For the avocado salsa:
2 ripe avocados, pitted, peeled, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced on the bias
2 jarred piquillo peppers, diced (or substitute 2 jarred roasted red peppers)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the adobo:
1 1/2 teaspoons toasted and ground coriander seeds
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 1/2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1 1/2 tablespoons dry mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons grated nutmeg
1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon paprika
1 1/2 tablespoons dried orange peel
1 tablespoon sugar
Four 6-ounce tuna steaks
1/4 cup peanut or canola oil

For the cucumbers:
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1/2 cup Champagne vinegar
1 European cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and very thinly sliced

For the salsa: In a medium bowl, combine the diced avocados, scallions, peppers, and garlic. In another bowl, whisk together the orange and lime juices, olive oil, and salt and pepper. Pour over the avocado mixture and gently toss. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, for the cucumbers: Mix the sugar and vinegar in a bowl, stirring well. Add the cucumbers and allow to marinate for about 15 minutes.

To serve, arrange the cucumber in neat slices across each plate. Slice the tuna and lay it over the cucumbers. Spoon the avocado salsa on top of or around the tuna. Spoon a little of the pickling juices around the cucumbers, and serve. (Sometimes I add a little grated orange zest for garnish as well.)

For the adobo: Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl. Rub each of the tuna steaks with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the oil and sprinkle generously with the adobo. (Reserve any extra adobo spice rub for another use.) In a nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until it begins to smoke. Sear the tuna on each side for only 1 minute — the tuna is served rare. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Recommended wine: A cold-pressed sake would be an unexpected but welcome accompaniment.
Chef Norman Van Aken shares his tips with Epicurious:

• The salsa includes Spanish piquillo peppers. To use them, drain the liquid from the jar, pat the peppers dry, then dice. In a pinch, jarred roasted red peppers can be substituted. • The tuna can also be grilled, as long as there is enough heat to quickly sear it. Pile a large amount of charcoal into a pyramid, let the coals burn until they are white and extremely hot, then spread them out into an even stack that reaches to within a few inches of the grate. The coals do not need to cover entire grill, since you will not need a large cooking surface. If using a gas grill, simply preheat on high. Coat the tuna with the oil and adobo as directed, and cook on an oiled grill rack for two to three minutes per side.